Bengal has always been a major center of art, culture and literature. Bengali literature is one of the oldest available literatures in the world, through which the readers round the globe got acquainted with the rich culture of this state. The Bengali culture is known for its diverse art forms, music and dance. Jewellery of Bengal is also considered as a reflection of the state’s magnificent cultural heritage. Therefore, it has a huge role to play in most Bengali traditional functions.
Gold, precious stones, silver, brass and zinc alloys are the main metals used in the making of jewellery in Bengal.
The old Bengal jewellery is very similar to that of Odisha. The tarkashi or filigree work of the Maukhali area in Bengal is equivalent to that found in Odisha. During British rule the setting of gems in Bengal jewellery changed from kundan setting of uncut gems to the open, claw setting of multifaceted gems.
Gold holds tremendous importance in Bengali traditions and the practice of wearing gold jewellery on special occasions – including weddings, religious ceremonies, and important festivals such as Durga Puja and Kali Puja – dates back centuries.
Bejewelling from head to toe, the jewellery of bengal has something unique to offer in each category. Within each category too, there are a number of variants to choose from.
To begin with, Tikli- An intricately carved gold ornament for the forehead, tikli resembles a maang tikka and is worn by every traditional Bengali bride.
Introduced to India by the Mughals, ratanchur is a delicate piece of jewellery for the hand. It consists of a gold ring attached to a centrepiece, which dangles around the back of the wearer’s hands and finally to an armlet or bracelet.
Use of sculpture and paintings is vividly evident in almost all facets of a Bengali culture including jewellery. Gold bracelets with sculptures or Meenakari paintings are called ‘Chur’ among Bengalis and can be worn by both, unmarried girls and married women.
A Nolok or a Nath is quite a significant part of Bengali bridal jewellery too. Although it’s not a mandatory piece of bridal jewellery, still many brides go for it because of its traditional elegance. A Nolok is a large nose ring with a string that goes up till the ear.
Kaan bala is a pair of earrings that is invariably present in every Bong woman’s trinket box. Set in gold, it is designed in a way that it takes the shape of the ear.
Bokul Maka-Bengali Gold Necklace is a gold chain, inspired by a flower called ‘bokul’. Bengali married women wear bokul mala on an everyday basis.
Tabiz, the most unique jewel piece from Bengal which is worn by Hindus as well as Muslims in Bengal on their upper arm. While this jewellery is religion-centric, gold and silver based baju, tagaa and tabiz with a hollowed centre are traditionally worn by both, men and women in Bengal.
The key identifying aspect of bengal jewellery is the use of flattened, bright-yellow gold to make elaborate designs. Traditionally neither enamel work nor precious stones or pearls were added to these designs. However, in recent times designers and jewellers have unveiled collections incorporating some enamel and stones in bengal jewellery.
